Sambalpuri Sarees : History and Making

Sambalpuri sarees are a traditional handwoven textile from the state of Odisha, India. These sarees are known for their unique designs and patterns, and are popular among women in the state and across the country. In this article, we will delve deeper into the history of Sambalpuri sarees, the process of making them, their design motifs, and the significance of these sarees in Odia culture.

History of Sambalpuri Sarees

The origin of Sambalpuri sarees can be traced back to the 9th century when Odisha was ruled by the Bhaumakara dynasty. During this time, the weavers of Sambalpur started making these sarees using the ikat technique. The term "ikat" refers to a resist-dyeing process in which the yarns are tie-dyed before weaving. The technique of ikat weaving was introduced to India by the Indonesian traders who used to visit the eastern coast of India.

The weavers of Sambalpur mastered this technique and started creating intricate designs on the sarees. These sarees were then known as "Bandha" sarees, which means tied and dyed. The sarees were made using cotton yarns and were available in limited designs and colors.

With time, the weavers started experimenting with different yarns such as silk and introduced new designs and colors. They also started weaving motifs of animals, birds, and flowers on the sarees, which made them more appealing.

Making of Sambalpuri Sarees

Sambalpuri sarees are handwoven sarees that are made using a unique process known as ikat weaving. This process involves dyeing the threads before they are woven, creating intricate patterns and designs on the finished fabric. In this article, we will explore the process of making Sambalpuri sarees, from selecting the raw materials to weaving the final product.

Raw Materials

The first step in making Sambalpuri sarees is to select the raw materials. The yarn used for the sarees is made from either cotton or silk, depending on the desired finish. The yarn is sourced from local markets and is often hand-spun to ensure high quality.

Dyeing

The next step is to dye the yarn using natural dyes made from plant extracts. The dyes are mixed with water and the yarn is soaked in the mixture for several hours. This process is repeated several times to create the desired color intensity. Once the yarn is dyed, it is left to dry in the sun.

Designing

The designing of Sambalpuri sarees is done using the ikat technique. This involves tying the yarn in specific patterns to create the desired design. The tied yarn is then dipped in a dye bath, with the tied sections preventing the dye from penetrating certain areas of the yarn. This process is repeated several times until the desired design is achieved.

Weaving

Once the yarn is dyed and the designs are created, the weaving process begins. The yarn is placed on a loom, and the weaver uses a shuttle to pass the thread through the warp threads to create the saree. The process is slow and intricate, with the weaver having to carefully align the threads to ensure the design is maintained throughout the saree.

Finishing

After the weaving is complete, the saree is washed and ironed to give it a smooth finish. The saree is then ready to be sold or worn for special occasions.

The process of making Sambalpuri sarees is a complex and time-consuming process that requires a high level of skill and attention to detail. From selecting the raw materials to weaving the final product, every step is carefully planned and executed to ensure a high-quality saree that reflects the rich cultural heritage of Odisha. The beauty and uniqueness of Sambalpuri sarees have made them a beloved symbol of Odia culture, cherished by women across the region and beyond.

Design Motifs of Sambalpuri Sarees

Sambalpuri sarees are known for their unique and intricate design motifs. These motifs are inspired by nature, mythology, and daily life in Odisha.

Some of the most popular design motifs used in Sambalpuri sarees include:

Pasapalli - Pasapalli is a chessboard-like design that is created using small squares of different colors.
Bichitrapuri - Bichitrapuri is a design that features various images, such as flowers, animals, and geometric shapes.
Barpali - Barpali is a design that is created using small dots in different colors.
Sonepuri - Sonepuri is a design that features gold and silver threads woven into the saree.
Bomkai - Bomkai is a design that features small, intricate patterns, such as flowers and leaves.

Significance of Sambalpuri Sarees in Odia Culture

Sambalpuri sarees are a type of handwoven saree that is traditionally made in the Sambalpur region of Odisha, India. They are known for their intricate ikat designs and vibrant colors, and are considered to be a cultural symbol of Odisha.

Sambalpuri sarees are an important part of Odia culture and are worn by women for special occasions such as weddings, festivals, and other celebrations. They are also often gifted to women during important life events such as childbirth and marriage.

In addition to their cultural significance, Sambalpuri sarees are also an important source of income for many weavers in the Sambalpur region. The process of making these sarees is labor-intensive and requires a high level of skill, making them a valuable commodity in the textile industry.

The Odisha government has recognized the importance of Sambalpuri sarees to the state's cultural heritage and has taken steps to promote and preserve this art form. In 2009, the Sambalpuri Bastralaya Handloom Cooperative Society was established to provide support to weavers and promote the production and sale of Sambalpuri sarees.

Overall, Sambalpuri sarees are an important part of Odia culture and a source of pride for the people of Odisha. They represent the rich cultural heritage of the state and serve as a reminder of the importance of traditional art forms in a rapidly changing world.